Thursday, 8 April 2010


The famous vineyards of Lungarotti

Tre Vaselle pool - relax with a view of the Umbrian hills

Where vinotherapy means bathing and drinking wine!

Anyone who knows us at Elixir, knows our passion for a glass ….or two of wine - particularly because it contains high amounts of anti-ageing antioxidants! So they might perhaps understand the shock of sampling vinotherapy in Italy for the first time.

After one of the best massages I can ever remember I was relaxing in the bath tub (pictured), already containing what I assumed to be grape extracts when the spa therapist uncorked a perfectly good bottle of red wine and poured its contents into the bath. Seeing the look of pure horror she relented and saved a glass, saying it wasn’t good to drink too much in the spa.

So with glass in hand I not only tasted but relaxed and bathed in the revitalizing and antioxidant vapours of one of the fine wines of Torgiano – a hilltop village in the heart of the famous DOC and DOCG wine region of Umbria.

The Bellauve Vinotherapy Spa is indeed a gem. It is peaceful and beautiful, with indoor and outdoor pools, Turkish baths, gym and outdoor relaxation areas surrounded by olive groves and views of the Umbrian Hills.

The spa is set in one of the region’s most exclusive five-star hotels, the Relais Hotel Le Tre Vasalle. The hotel, in a 17th century house and whose name refers to the ancient ceramic winejugs, is in a narrow street in what was once a fortified village in the Middle Ages, near ancient towns of Perugia (5 miles) and Assisi (10 miles).

Surrounded by antique furniture and paintings, each of the 60 bedrooms is furnished differently, giving it has the atmosphere of a grand country home – perfect for a romantic getaway. The restaurant, Le Melograine, reworks traditional Umbrian specialities such as pasta with black truffles, as well as diet menus served with famous local wines..

Le Tre Vassale brings together wine, art and hospitality. This is because the hotel is the passion of one family – the Lungarottis, first and second generation winemakers who have made Torgiano their own.

Tre Vaselle entrance (pictured) - Torgiano an ancient Medieval hill town of small streets

As well as the hotel, there is a wine museum and olive oil, museum and the nearby Cantine Lunggarotti which produces the finest red wines grown on surrounding slopes (Sangiovese, Anaiolo, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon), including Rubesco. The whites (Trebiano, Grechetto, Chardonnay, Pinot) are grown on cooler hillsides. And there is also an excellent sparkling Lungarotti Brut made with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir - the traditional champagne grapes.

Giogrgio Lungarotti and his wife and Maria Grazia, an art historian run the winery business with daughters Chiara and Teresa and produce around three million bottles of wine annually.

The famous Rubesco wine

A visit to the Wine Museum and the Cantine are a must. Housed in the 17th century Palazzo Graziani-Baglioni, it has one of the most comprehensive collections of viticulture artifacts anywhere in the world – from its earliest stages in the Mediteranean to the Middle Ages and beyond – covering five thousand years of winemaking history. The theme of Bacchus runs through the collections which are housed in 20 rooms, featuring working tools, the history of wine in pleasure, fine prints, drawings, antiquarian books and graphics by Picasso and a glass by Jean Cocteau.

The hotel offers a range of activities including truffle hunting, cookery classes, as well as scooter hire.

Ancient grape press in the Wine Museum

An elborate ancient drinking flask

A glass by Jean Cocteau

The secret Palazzo of Torgiano - across from the hotel

The prized Italian truffle

Truffle dog Alice gets her reward

I have always wanted to go truffle hunting. And it was not a disappointment. No need to get up at the crack of dawn. After a lazy breakfast we are driven to a nearby forest to meet our guide Matteo and his English setter Asia.

The black truffles, known locally as “black gold” can fetch up to 150 Euros a kilo and the rarer white 3,000 Euros so the cost of buying your truffle dog – 4,000 euros in the case of Asia can pay dividends.

Asia was no disappointment. She was driven by a reward of a cheese slice each time she found a truffle. Sniffing the ground and as if by magic she would start digging with her paws, finding truffle after truffle. Standing on her back legs she put her front paws on Mateo’s hips to claim her reward.

As we walked in the woods we passed groups riding horses – this is also riding country. And back at the minibus we were greeted by table laden with a feast of antipasti and red wine – and it was only 10.30am! A bit early even for me but sometimes a girl has to do what a girl has to do! It would be rude not to.


Hotel Le Tre Vaselle, via Garibaldi, 48. Torgiana – Perugia. T: + 39 075 9880447 Email:
Double rooms from £194 ($297, €220), also look out for special packages and promotions on the website.

Cantine Giogio Lungarotti T: + 39 075 988661 on wine tastings
Wine and Olive and Oil MuseumsT: +39 075 9880200

Getting to Torgiano

Alitalia to Rome to Perugia

1 comment:

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